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Thursday, March 1, 2012


The beautiful valley at Hanalei Bay on Kauai, one of my favourite places on all of the earth and on the beach here Samdog and I got engaged.
mmmmargeritas at the the Billabong lush
Do you think this is enough surfboards for two people, well guess again this is only half of it. First thing this week..check into the chiropractor after lugging board bags around for nearly a month!
The view from my bedroom..ahhh take me back now.
The taxi driver told me he had a history with traffic accidents....excellent.
Launch of the collaboration at the Billabong house on the first day of Pipe, totally insane experience.
I lost my sunglasses at Waikiki and got them back hours later..I know it's a miracle, this wasn't even a busy day.
Pipe on a smaller day.
Sharks Cove on the north shore, I've sold many boards here.  The thing I've found about Hawaii is that no matter how big the boards are that I take over I always seem to need bigger ones, scarey.
Seriously..I never got sick of the palm trees can you tell.
Where history is made, dreams are achieved and broken,  and ambulances are busier than ever.
The view from our room in Waikiki.
Acai bowls at BeetBox cafe, heaven.
Sunset at KeIki

Hawaiian style, everyone has to get lei'd, sorry i had to slip that one in.
The view from the house on the second day of the contest.
  Opaeka’a falls:
Across the road, the Wailua river was running brown and looking like it was going to overflow its banks. The Kamokila village down there was closed (but maybe it’s not open on Sunday):
Then we drove to Wailua falls. Everthing along the road was soaked, and the ditches by the golf course were full. But there didn’t seem to be any flooding, so the county’s work on clearing the vegetation out of the drainage ditches has paid off. Even the Kaua’i roosters were soaked, their feathers dull and their tails drooping.
Wailua falls was even more impressive, with the full flow of the South Fork plunging over. I estimate there was 2-3 feet of water going over the full width of the waterfall—except the one place on the left where a tree was still clinging to the edge:
We stood there for over 15 minutes with our umbrellas, fascinated at the wall of water tumbling down. The brown water flowed over in a solid sheet, then it separated into streams and finally separated into white water drops in very intricate and ever-changing patterns. I tried to get a photo of the effect, but my camera is not good enough, so this is just an enlargement of the previous photo:
Almost as impressive was the massive cloud of spray that was blowing the trees like a strong wind. We did see two tropic birds flying around, wondering why they were flying in the mist and what the view was like from there. And with all that water, the round pool at the bottom was gone, all the rocks and vegetation covered by the outflow.
On the way home, I pulled over at Wailua beach and walked on the bike path back across the new bridge. The river mouth was spread out wider than the length of the bridge:

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